26, 07, 2016
| Yesterday was a big day for me in surfing. Not big like I caught my biggest or even best waves but biggest on a personal level. I may be alone in this but surfing alone has always been way too intimidating to me. Even though there are plenty of people in the water for some reason I can’t just go in by myself. Someone I know always has to be in the water with me. This makes no sense at all and there’s no logic behind it, people don’t help you catch waves, they’re not gonna save you from a shark or prevent your “over the falls” wipeout that smashes you into the rocks, they in fact cannot do anything other than be surfing near you. So yesterday for some reason I felt confident enough to paddle out alone. When I pulled up there were three girls in bikinis surfing by themselves and I felt like it was a sign, I jumped in they welcomed me and I had a really nice day! My other friends later met me and it was an epic day off! I needed to be cleansed in the salty water so badly that I was willing to face my fear. It’s like my friend Dave Royce always says “When the pain of remaining the same is greater than the fear of change you will surrender”.
Roxy rash guard is sold out but a similar style is at http://bit.ly/2aczA7u